Surfing in Spain

Spain is two surf countries with nothing in common, and treating them as one is the surest way to waste a trip.

In the north, the Cantabrian coast faces the open Atlantic and takes swell head-on. The Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias line up beach breaks, river mouths and a handful of points that rank among the best in Europe. The useful season runs from September to April, when depressions track far enough south to produce something serious, and when the water asks for a full suit. Summer is often small, which is exactly what makes it the right time to learn.

In the south-west, the Atlantic side of Andalusia works differently. It is more sheltered, far more wind-dependent, and much of its appeal comes from the fact that the wind is reliable, reliable enough that Tarifa became a kitesurfing capital rather than a surfing one. For a surfer, the Cádiz coast offers decent days without ever rivalling the north.

For anyone flying from Britain or Ireland, the draw is how cheap and short the hop to Bilbao or Santander is. A long weekend on the Cantabrian coast costs less in time and money than most domestic trips, and the waves in October are a different order to anything at home.

Who it suits: the intermediate surfer who wants dependable waves without crossing an ocean, and the beginner who comes in summer, when the north settles down. The winter months, by contrast, do not forgive improvisation.